The Grass Doctor

How do I turn a yard of rocky soil and weeds to green?

I just recently purchased a house and new the yard was in bad shape. I don't mind putting time and money into the yard, but I don't necessarily want to hire a lawn service since I'm trying to save all that I can at the moment. The situation is, my yard is basically weeds at this point, with patches of bare soil. I'm on a corner lot with a significant downward grade on the front and side yards (20-30 degrees maybe?), and the backyard is very heavily shaded from the trees around the property. The backyard doesn't even have weeds growing, its just dirt. I took soil samples and did a home nutrient test, and the results are as follows: pH - around 5.0-5.5 Nitrogen is low Phosphorus is average Potassium is high I also took some of the soil and put it in a clear container and filled it with water and shook it for a few minutes and then let it settle over the course of a few days. There's about 1.5 inches of sand, an 0.25 inch layer of silt, and a 0.25 layer of very fine particulate (I assume clay, right?). This sort of makes sense to me, since having spotty patches of weeds for years on a downgrade would probably wash away all the finer particles in the soil. The one bit of good news is that the back of the lot is wooded and has years of un-raked leaves that have fallen and formed a layer of compost several inches deep. I can potentially use that as a starter for a compost pile to add nutrients back to the soil. Also this property is in Maryland, USA. So where do I go from here? I understand that now (mid-September) is when I want to be putting down grass seed, but I'm pretty sure I shouldn't do that if weeds have overgrown everywhere and the soil chemical balance is off. Do I add ammonium nitrate and lime now, and spray for weeds, and then aerate and seed in a few weeks or what? Thanks!

Public Comments

  1. To start with the home test kit you describe is pretty limited in accuracy. I would go to your closest cooperative extension service and buy a kit that you mail to the university, for a more accurate result, and better recomendations. The Nitrogen test is almost meaingless as N levels change based on soil temps. I would go ahead and start removing the weeds as much as possible, and try to get some grass seed started. Even if you lime now, it will take several months to work, and getting some grass growing is the first step. When you seed the grass use a turf starter fertilizer- this will be low in N, and higher in P and K. The Nitrogen component will be a slow release form. In the back where it is shaded, use a seed that is labled for shady areas. Most likey a turf type tall fescue mix.
  2. What you need is top soil. May I suggest to pick up all the grass clippings and leaves bagged outside on the streets ready to be recycled and dump those on your back yard. In a few months this material mixed with your own leaf mold and lime will decompose and is ready for grass seed for shady areas. Or you might consider shade-loving shrubs or perennials. For the steep front and sides ground-hugging evergreen shrubs, like Cotoneaster Damneri, might be useful. Being on a tight budget find cuttings for rooting to start the shrubs you like. Start plants from seeds or visit private plant sales, and plant sales held by garden clubs.Talk to a gardening enthusiast in your new neighbourhood. These people are only too happy to help and advice you.
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