The Grass Doctor

What decent grass seed can I plant on fairly hard clay surface, and HOW?

I have a home that has a fairly sloped backyard. Years later, sections of the hill are now completely void of grass, and I have hard dirt/clay instead...not nice looking at all. There was some nice grass on it at one time, but no more. Having never done this before, I need some help on how and what type of grass to use. I also need an affordable solution, as my budget is non existent. Thanks in advance I live in Mobile, Alabama...pretty humid down here with lots of hard clay surfaces.

Public Comments

1. go to www.travelforum.com
2. i would go to a lawn and garden center in your area and ask them what would grow on your hill side i would plant some thing that does not need any trimming like crown vetch or a ivy but both will spread in to the grass on top
3. There are tons of varieties of grass seed that can be purchased, according to needs as well as your location. These include very fine grasses: my assumption that you'll plump for these, for the more luxurious appearance. Otherwise you can get harder-wearing varieties, that will take losts of trampling. Typically if a grass seed mix contains Rye grass, it will be tougher but won't have the same fineness of appearance. If you can post your location, then I'd be able to suggest types that will work. Hot southern locations will take differing types to more temperate areas. I'd also look at what's caused the problem of your older grass disappearing. If you just treat the symptom, ie. add more seeds, then you may well get the problem recurring in the future. Lawns really benefit from having the soil well prepared in advance of sowing. For clay soils I would mix in alot of organic material, to break the soil down somewhat. The earthworms will do the rest of the job. Clay has a habit of becoming like concrete in hot dry spells, and organic material will prevent this. If you could find some other top soil that isn't clay, and replace the clay or mix this in, this will also help. I'll revisit your question later, to see if you've added your location, so that I can add much more info. Good luck! Rob
4. I think I can help you with this one. It will cost some monies, however, we can reduce and spread the cost over a period of time! I was in charge of Grounds Operations at a Center City University in Philadelphia. Talk about growing grass on a brick!!! Find a local store that will rent you a Core Aeration machine for half a day. Some will tell you to till, however, tilling will just bring the weeds into play. Run the Aerator over the entire turf at about a two inch level. In the bare spots run it over again at a four inch level. This will relieve the compaction and allow air to the root level. The next weekend spread Granular Gypsum at the max manuf. rate. This stuff is cheap and will back fill the core areas. It is neutral and will provide the air to flow as well as allow water to better infiltrate and feed the existing roots. During this time continue to cut whatever turf you have but do it at a minimum height of three inches. This will allow for the existing turf to gain deeper roots. You will now have the max expense. Purchase a Certified Seed Mixture of three varieties of seed for your area. Check the lable carefully. It should have 0% or less of weed seed and a germination rate of above90%. Topseed at 2lbs/1,000 sq foot. In the bare areas use a heavy rake to work in the seed and feel free to add a bit more. Make sure to work the seed into the soil in the bare areas using the rake. Get yourself a Granular 10-10-10 with minerals fertilizer. Make sure it has the minerals. This stuff is cheap. Forget the brand names go for the content not the name. Spread as per the manuf. med. rate. Do this after the overseed and water the entire turf. Water deeply the first day and moderately every three days for the first two weeks. The Certified seed will emerge in about 7-10 days. Refert in Mid-Sept and again at Halloween. Topseed again in-between that period (fert, 3 wks topseed, 3wks later fert). In the fall use the manuf max rate! The gypsum should go for about $5 per 50lbs. The fert should be $8-10 per 50lbs. The seed, however, maybe as high as $3 per lb. With the high germination and no weeds it actually saves you money. Keep the mower at 3", but, when time for the final cut lower it to 2" to prevent winter damage. In the spring raise it again to 3" (you do not have a golf course) and aerate, fert, and topseed again. Do this in April if you can. Good Luck. I am at gjgjobs@yahoo.com