The Grass Doctor

What is the best product to use to get rid of poison oak/ivy in a garden or lawn?

What is the best lawn care product to use to get rid of poison oak or poison ivy? Also in an effort to be more environmentally conscious are there natural non-chemical products that are effective in getting rid of poison oak or poison ivy?

Public Comments

1. Round Up weed killer get it by the gallion at walmart
2. Chemical Control Herbicides used to control poison oak in California include glyphosate (Roundup, etc.) and the auxinic herbicides triclopyr (Garlon, Ortho Brush-B-Gon, etc.), 2,4-D (Spurge & Oxalis Killer, etc.), and dicamba (Banvel, Spurge & Oxalis Killer, etc.). These herbicides can be applied as stump or basal applications, or as a foliar spray. Glyphosate is one of the most effective herbicides for the control of poison oak. However, effective control depends upon proper timing of the application. Apply glyphosate late in the growth cycle, after fruit have formed but before leaves lose their green color. In hand-held equipment, glyphosate can be applied as a 2% solution in water. (Products or spray mixtures containing less than 2% glyphosate may not effectively control poison oak.) It is important to note that glyphosate is a nonselective compound and will damage or kill other vegetation it contacts. Auxinic herbicides, such as triclopyr, 2,4-D, dicamba, and combinations of these herbicides, are also used to control poison oak. The application timing with auxinic herbicides is somewhat different than for glyphosate: applications can be made earlier than with glyphosate, when plants are growing rapidly from spring to midsummer. Triclopyr is the most effective auxinic herbicide for control of poison oak. It has a wider treatment window than glyphosate and it often gives more consistent control. Two formulations of triclopyr are available. Triclopyr amine is the least effective of the formulations and requires relatively high rates. Triclopyr ester or triclopyr ester plus 2,4-D ester gives better herbicide absorption into the foliage and is more effective. When 2,4-D is combined with dicamba, it provides much better control than if it is used alone in a 1% solution. Premixed combinations of these herbicides are available. Dicamba applied at 0.5% gives better long-term control of poison oak than 2,4-D. A new herbicide in California, imazapyr, is also very effective for the control of poison oak, but is only available for application by licensed pesticide applicators. In forestry, there are two formulations. The water soluble formulation (Arsenal) is effective as a foliar treatment at 1% plus a 0.25% surfactant. A similar treatment with an emulsifiable concentrate formulation (Chopper, Stalker) will control poison oak at a 2% solution in water or a 1% solution plus 5% of a methylated or ethylated seed oil. The best timing is in either spring after full leaf expansion or in late summer (mid-August through September).
3. Get some weed killer. most of them are a waxy coating the covers the plant so they cannot absorb water and sun light, which will cause the plant to die. make sure you protect yourself even after the plant dies. It's the sap from the plant that has all the poison in it. I am not allergic to it some it doesn't bother me. so see if someone you know isn't allergic to it and ask them to get rid of it for you.
4. Unless you have a briar-patch of poison oak/ivy, I would dig it up. I have the stuff (plus Virginia creeper) growing in several places and where it's sparse, I dig it up, making sure I get all of the root. In areas where it's dense, I use weed killer specifically for these plants, and still they don't die on the first round. In some areas, I've sprayed a couple of times and it does thin out the area. Ultimately, I have to dig it up. The root system on these vines are very prolific, and if any of the root remains, it will recover fairly quickly. I've thought about using something harsher, but I have cats, and also I'm not sure if any one product is better than the next. One thing for sure, you have to stay with it, or it will regain and continue to grow the minute your back is turned! good luck
5. gas
6. The best "product" to use is what your mum and dad made.In other words,your self. Please don't be offended by my humour.Read on.The best way to erradicate this and especially other heartbreak weeds is by hard work and persintence.That is,of course if you"re physical capable.It can at first seem a daunting challenge.Once ya start pulling these pesky noxious rotters out by hand it can become a real mission/task,but stick it out and feel proud of a grand environmental accomplishment.Chemicals are not needed.Even the so called friendly pyrethrum stuff kills just as many good little insects as it does the garden "baddies". Underground roots of this type of vines can be as thick as your leg and many metres long,strangling huge trees.Sweet perfumed Jasmine is another deadly tree strangler menace.And can also be fatal to people allergic to its pollen. I've cleared many acres of the dreaded deadly poisonous lantanta by hand.A very dirty scratchy itchy job indeed,but well worth the effort because lantana thickets highly enrich the soil as they take over parcels of land.Get rid of it,and all ya vegies and"ahhmm herbs" will be chucking themselves out the ground. Get stuck in,only use good sharp appropriate tools and all the best in your endeavours,(don't fukk ya back up!) oorroo,from Snowy. ps,visit your local council,and large nurseries,Gardening Australia on ABC,and insist on nontoxic noxcious weed removal.