The Grass Doctor

Why wont my grass come back each year? It grows well for one yeat but does not return the next.?

Why wont my parkway lawn/grass come back each year? It grows well for one yeat but does not return the next. Is it the root system? Or is there a more tenacious type of grass seed I shold be buying? Ive ruled out winter salt problems - therefore I am baffled. THX

Public Comments

1. put more fertilizer!!!! and get the sprinklers going
2. i guess your going to have to plant seed each year till you find the right one.good luck.
3. Maybe you planted rye grass. Read what is in the bag of seed. If it's rye grass it will only live for one year. Plant Tall Fescue "Kentucky 31" , Or, Kentucky blue grass that is planted the most but harder to grow.
4. are you sure that you are purchasing perennial grass rather than annual . if you plant annual it will look great for the growing season , but dies off in the winter . if you are planting perennial grass then i suggest you get a soil sample done before you decide to over fertilize . call you local extension office or agway to find out where to have one done . while you have them on the phone ask them about their recommendations as to a good seed blend is for your area . always put down a three or four seed blend . that way if your soil does have a problem the seed that can handle it will become dominate and thrive . good luck . and about what carl said about rye grass is not true . there are both varieties of rye as well as most grasses . annual and perennial .
5. Ok so far what have we been putting down that's not worked. I'm going to make a guess on it and guess that you've been using annual ryegrass. Comes up relatively quick. Stays for about a season and then dyes off. Hence the term ANNUAL ryegrass. Although it does end up dying on you and not coming up too well, it might not be a bad way to start. Start with this kind of grass because it does come up relatively quickly and can give just enough shade to the soil. It may also hold the soil down a little better so the nutrients can stay for the real grass you want to grow. On this grass, get the most inexpensive grass that contains predominantly annual ryegrass. Maybe some red or fine fescue might be a good starter grass. Here again, its not expected to live the long hual but it will help with the grass that WILL stay there. The next thing we've got to consider is for where I live, what is the best grass seed. I'm not going to tell you to plant a southern grass up north in the midwest. Although, it MIGHT work but chances are lower. In the same respect, I'm not going to tell you to plant a midwestern grass down south where it might be too hot. Assuming that you live in a state that isn't too hot, next you're going to want to know what kind of sun that area might get. If the area is shaded with lots of trees, you've got to go for more acid loving or more shade loving grasses. In the midwest, you might consider a red or fine fescue again mixed maybe with a PERENNIAL ryegrass. These kinds of grasses don't need nearly the amount of sun and are more acid loving. Trees tend to put a little more acid into the ground. If its out in the open, one might think to go with a Kentucky Bluegrass/Tall fescue mix. Or a Kentucky Bluegrass/Perennial ryegrass mix as well. My personal fav is the Kentucky Blue/Tall Fescue mix because once it comes up, it needs less water to keep it going and a bigger blade taking up a little more space. The bad news is, it takes a little longer to grow. THIS is why we have the other cheap red or fine fescue grass or the annual ryegrass down. For all anybody knows its more of an aesthetic kind of thing. For Colorado, for example, I tried to lean customers maybe for that Hardy Mountain Mix (bluegrass and ryegrass for the most part) with a mix of tall fescue. Something will come up and stay till next year. If its isolated parts in the yard, I wouldn't just replant in the problem areas. Do you know why those areas are problem areas? I would just go over the whole yard with seed. This will help the good areas eventually choke out the problem areas. The best time for any major seeding is in the fall for most places. As long as you can get a little root growth (4 mowings at least) before the snow flies. But since its spring time and these seeds still have to make it during maybe a hot summer, go a little lighter on the seeding. Something else that might have gone wrong before is maybe we mowed too soon. If the ground's a little mushy still and roots really aren't taking quite so quick, hold of a little bit. When you DO mow, make sure its at the highest setting. So what you don't cut much. Once it catches up, you'll be fine. Continue. for the most part, to keep your mowings as high as possible 3-3.25 inches once a week. The only times to cut lower than this are the first mowing of the year and when easing your mower down for the last mowing of the year. By the last mowing, you should be just about scalping but not scalping your yard. Think of it like this. When its winter time, we don't know how long until our next cut. Also roots are a little shorter to get moisture closer to the surface. Also this blocks against a fungus called snow mold. The cause of this is the long grass gets snowed on and eventually gets weighed down and meshes with other weighted down grass. In the spring, you might see a kind of a pinkish color..maybe even a gelish look. If this is the problem, rake it up and let oxygen back to the soil. In the summer, we want those roots to be as deep as possible by letting it grow on top a little more so can suck up that moisture. Maybe the problem was the first thing we saw in the grass was weeds and we got antsy about them. When growing grass from a seed or sod, one must realize for awhile, we're either growing grass or we are taking care of weeds. Can't have it both ways at least not initially. Only after about four mowings where you're actually cutting things on the new grass can you even consider using weed control. I've at least taken care of some of the problems you might not be considering. Give me more information as to what kind of climate you live in and where is this grass in terms of shade. I've just given you general kind of midwestern solutions to possible problems. For more answers, you might consider taking a before and after pic. A picture of the lawn in the fall before winter and before it doesn't come back. And then a spring picture. If you can tell someone at your local store where you get products what exactly is going on with pictures and past seedings, you will be on a road to recovery. If nobody else, shoot pictures or tell me more via email. I'll try to help a little more if I know what I'm dealing with. Be a little patient though. Currently on the other side of the world.
6. are you sure it is a perennial grass or is it a annual grass perennial grass will come up year after year a annual grass comes up one year and dies. If you are looking for the best grass to plant in your area I would contact your local county extension office they can help you and that is what they are there for.